2. From Tōka Ichiba Eki (literally “Tenth Day Market Station”) to Tsuru University

First of all, get off the Fujikyu Express train and exit Tōka Ichiba Station down National Road, Route 139. You will be following this road for pretty much the whole of this tour so bear it in mind.

It will cross the Katsura River after a leisurely downhill stroll of less than five minutes. However, just before that, turn right onto the small bridge across the river. From the bridge, look back upstream and you will see Tahara Falls laid out before you.

Across the bridge on the left you will see a small shrine called Tahara Shrine. In front of that, there is a monument and a rather charming bronze statue of a seated Matsuo Bashō. You can say hello to him.

The script on the monument reads:

勢ひあり氷消えては瀧津魚　芭蕉

the force of the fall
exodus of ice pillars
fish are now climbing

Bashō

(Interpretation: waterfalls have mysterious power. When spring comes, the ice disappears and now the fish are climbing the falls.)

The monument was erected in the twenty sixth year of Showa (1951). By the way, an attempt has been made here and elsewhere to capture the spirit of the haiku in the English language. It will be left to the reader to decide how successful this attempt has been! A more straightforward attempt at interpretation has also been offered. In any case, the reader is encouraged to come up with much better haiku formulations (essentially three lines consisting of five syllables, seven syllables, and five syllables) than the clumsy efforts offered here.

Go back on to Route 139, keep walking down the hill, and turn right at the Tsuru University Entrance crossroads (a large T-intersection with traffic lights) and walk towards the university.

You are now on the Tsuru Bypass. Go across the railway line, walk 150 meters or so, and turn right again at the next intersection in front of Tsuru University (this also has traffic lights) and go up the hill.

You will see red-brick buildings belonging to the university on your right. Instead of entering the university, go a little further up the road to the left going towards Uguisu Hall. Very shortly you will come to the entrance to Rakuyama Park, which is signposted in Japanese and English.

Walk up the path to the left and take the second little path, (with rough steps) lined by bushes, to the right. You will shortly emerge to an area of open ground and you will see a black granite monument, although it is a little difficult to locate, as it is somewhat shrouded by trees.

馬ぼくぼく吾を繪に見る夏野かな

the horses clip clop
we picture how we must look
in this summer field

(The horse moves along slowly. In our mind’s eye one sees oneself on top of a horse in a field in summer.)

It will be seen later that this image remained with the poet, who made numerous efforts at reworking the lines, over some considerable period of time.

After contemplating these lines, if you start to feel the need for refreshment, go back down the way you came and grab a drink at the coffee shop Buncham, opposite the entrance to the university car park. Keep going down the hill and you should be able to find your way back to the intersection in front of the university.

If you go straight ahead at the traffic lights, you will be on the road to Tsuru University Station. If it is time for lunch, you might prefer to turn right at the intersection, walk fifty meters or so down the Tsuru bypass road and try some genuine Yoshida Udon noodles at the renowned Ishii udon restaurant. You will find this among a cluster of drinking establishments frequented by the local students. You may be tempted to drop by for evening refreshments later. By the way, Buncham and Ishii are both closed on Sundays.

In any case, when you are ready, head towards Tsuru University Station, or Tsurubunkadaigakumaeeki (which, in spite of being one of the longest words in the world, simply means the station in front of Tsuru University!), get on a train going towards Ōtsuki station and get off at Yamuramachieki (Yamura Station). Alternatively, you can go back on to Route 139 and walk to Yamura Station in about twenty minutes as it is only one stop away. Just be warned that the roads are not particularly pedestrian-friendly at this point, being extremely narrow yet used by heavy vehicles. However, do not be put off because we will be finding some rather lovely walking routes later.